 
 As you may remember, we left off where the original body was turned into a plug. Lots of shaping, sanding, and sweat. We got as far as getting the plug into the first coats of high build primer, a polyester primer to be exact. This stuff is like spraying a mixture of resin and body filler. After letting it set up/cure for a couple of days, the initial round of block sanding began. I started off with 80 grit on a long board and sanded it dry. Let me tell ya, this is some nasty stuff. So bad that the disposable particle mask wasn't cutting it, so I used my painting respirator to keep the junk out of my nose, mouth, and lungs.    You will see that this process takes off a considerable amount of material, revealing low spots, high spots and any other imperfections in the coats of Bondo that has been applied. Along the way while I block out the plug, I had to apply pieces of tape to mark areas that will need additional body filler; fiberglass is tough to get smooth unlike a steel body. These things are so far from perfect in the original form, I wanted to do all I could to improve on the shape. To do this I had to be patient and do a ton of block sanding. Even still, these bodies are not exact when measured left to right and front to back. I've spent a fair amount of time just trying to get it close, but don't kid yourself, up until the last several years, many funny car bodies have such issues.   Of course I had to go back to blocking out all of the areas where the filler was added, and in some cases I would spray on a guide coat to help. After this step was completed, it was time for some more primer. The second coat really showed the detail of the effort and work from all the sanding. By this time I'm feeling pretty good about the results. This also followed some time to cure, but the days of dry sanding are over, and the days of wet sanding are upon us.   The wet sanding process isn't much different than the first round of block sanding; except I didn't have to deal with the dust. I started with 220 grit and just worked my way around the whole body. Again, there are some spots that I find with some imperfections, and go back with a spot putty to clean up. Those areas also receive some 220 action too. After the initial wet sanding I applied a few more light coats of prime and knocked it down with 400 grit.  Once the wet sanding is completed I began polishing the whole body to further smooth out the surface. The primer will develop a light shine, but nothing like regular paint/clear. Nonetheless, smooth is what we want.  Negative draft is a term I did learn, and it is good to know in making a mold. Basically it means you make the mold sections part at the widest point. Imagine making a mold of a sphere, you would have to do it in two sections, and split it right down the middle, or you couldn't remove the object out of the mold. The same holds true with the body, but you have various contours to consider too.      First thing to do is apply a release agent, or PVA to be exact. This is a very thin liquid with a green tint, and when sprayed on the surface it will dry and form a film that is like very fine food wrap. To apply all I did was use my trusty JGA-502 primer gun; just pour it in and start spraying. Remember when I said I'd screw something up? Well it didn't take long. I said this stuff is kinda thin; check that, it’s really thin. The first few coats were laid down a bit heavy and started to run. So I just waited about 15 min and peeled it off the surface.  Once it is set up properly, I started taking pre-torn sections of 1.5 oz mat material and laid onto the surface wetting it out with a stippling brush. Did I tell you how messy this job can be? Well, it's not getting any better. After applying one layer I let it cure up before applying the next layer. Since it was kinda warm while I was doing this (you know, Florida is kinda warm year round), I didn't have to wait very long. The ideal time to apply the next layer is when the previous layer isn't warm to the touch from the chemical reaction within the resin. You have to do it in this way for the first 2-3 layers, otherwise if you laid multiple layers at one time, the thickness of the material would get so warm from curing, it would mess up the tooling surface of the mold. After about 3 layers, you can go back and lay down multiple layers at one time.   Once I finished laying up the front and rear sections of and allowed to cure, I removed the clay to expose the flanged edge and proceeded to clay up the flange for the top section. By now I'm feeling more comfortable with the equipment and materials in this project. Using the same steps as I described before, I began molding the top section.    Much like before, I completed both side sections, working them together. I've become so used to working the material, the process is going much smoother, and with more ease. I can't say that it is any less messy, as you can see in the photos what would be on the floor if I didn't lay down cardboard to catch the resin that drips off. Even still, my garage floor is trashed by now, but that is ok, I have bigger plans for this place after my new shop is built. The same can also be said for any clothing I was wearing. I found the best thing to do is wear cheap shirts and pants, don't bother washing them either. Just wear them till they get so nasty you just toss them in the garbage. Trust me, you will get some resin on them, and glass fibers will get worked into the fabric; you do not want to put these in your washing machine.    After the last sections are cured, I cut off any excess material that wasn't needed on the flanges, ground the edges smooth, and drilled ¼ holes so I could bolt the mold together after it is removed.     Anxiety is now building as we are ready to pull the mold from the plug and see if my efforts are successful, or if it will lead to emotional breakdown. Taking a plastic dead blow hammer, I would tap the flanges to help them separate. You could actually hear the sections release (thank God) while doing this. Starting with the grill area, I took a thin screwdriver and wedged it between the flanges, twisting gently. I could hear the section as it was releasing from the plug, and with little effort the section popped right off. The finish is more than what I was hoping for.   Using the same technique, I began removing the rest of the sections, and found that I seemed to be successful thus far in making a mold. Granted, there are some things I would have done differently, but it is all part of the process. The next mold I make I'll do some things differently in the way I reinforce it with wood and conduit ribbing. But for now, I am thrilled with the outcome and I probably appeared as Dr. Frankenstein did when he saw his creation was alive.   I wasn't done yet with this, as I figured that I needed to “glass in” some kind of reinforcement for the top section. When I removed it, the piece seemed a little too flimsy for my liking. Grabbing some 1X4 wood, and made a rib that went down the center, and that kind of added some stiffness. Again, doing it over, I would have done a few things differently. However, I really don’t see making more than a handful of bodies from this mold, and wouldn't need to worry too much about how well it will hold up over time.  The next step is to clean the mold surface as the PVA has transferred over from the plug. This stuff is water soluble, so with a hose, sponge, and a bucket, the stuff washes right off. After that I had to make a cradle/stand for the mold, polish the mold surface, and apply several coats of wax, and then we'd be ready to lay up the first body. |